CHAPTER 6

Navajo and Apache Reservations


I left my motel in the town of Gallup, New Mexico, early
that morning and rode north for a few miles on 'R.666'.
Then I turned west onto 'R.264' and after about eighteen
miles I crossed again into Arizona.  A few miles later I
rode into the town of Window Rock.  This contains the
administrative headquarters for the entire Navajo
reservation which has its own council and police force.
The 74 member tribal council meets here in a hogan-shaped
Council House every three months.  The town takes its name
from the wall like rock through which a natural hole has
been eroded.  However, today happened to be a Monday, the
only day of the week when the museum was closed.

I rode north on a narrow road which had only been tarmac
in the last few years.  It was a bright sunny day.  The
sky was blue and there was no hint of the storm I had
experienced the day before.  The road wound passed pine
trees and through small valleys.  Eventually, I reached a
raised plateau which marked the beginning of the canyon
area.  I turned west and followed the canyon rim towards
Chinle, the town which acts as a gateway to the canyon
area.  I reached it at mid-day and stopped for food.  It
seemed ironic that in Indian country, the only restaurant
I could find belonged to Kentucky Fried Chicken but I was
so hungry it had to make do.  Afterwards, I made my way to
the visitor centre to look round and pick up a guide map.

The canyon is divided into two forks which branch south-
east and north-east from Chinle.  I chose to explore the
south-east branch first and was soon ridding along the
narrow road which bordered the southern rim.  I stopped at
various vantage points and looked down at the canyon floor
far below me.  A small muddy river flowed there, lined
with cottonwood trees and grassy fields.  The canyon sides
arose from each side as sheer walls of rock.  Every now
and then I could see small round log built hogans and
signs of cultivation or a small herd of cattle.  A small
number of Navajo live here, eking out a living as their
fathers had done before them.  However, I had read that
the fertile soil was slowly thinning, washed away by the
river that fed it and by centuries of intensive farming.
At various points, on narrow ledges on the rock or even
high up in cervices on the cliff face, I could see the
pueblo remains of the Anasazi civilisation, abandoned by
Indians centuries before the arrival of the Navajo.

The Canyon de Chelly was the last stronghold of the
Navajo.  Being part raiders as well as farmers, they
escaped reprisals by hiding in the rocks on the steep
canyon walls.  In 1864, the US Army under the command of
Kit Carson were ordered to put an end to the Navajo
problem.  To defeat them they employed a scorched earth
policy and rode the length of the canyon, burning crops
and slaughtering livestock until the Indians were starved
into submission.  Eventually, after being forced marched
into concentration camps, they were allowed home.  The
population of the Navajo is actually expanding.  Some are
trying to live by their traditional farming ways such as
those in the Canyon de Chelly and it is forbidden for an
outsider to enter the canyon floor without a special pass.
Others live in the manner of modern day Americans.  Oil,
gas and uranium have been discovered on parts of the
reservation in recent years which have brought wealth and
with it a complete alteration of lifestyle.

When I rode away again from the canyon it was quite dark
and once again it got very cold.  I returned to my motel
in Gallup.  About this time I began to have trouble
starting the bike.  It would not respond to the starter
button and, as in the case of a lot of modern motorcycles
now a days, there was no kick-start so I was having to
push-start it.  This is no joke at high altitude when
laden down with baggage.  The next morning, despite all my
efforts, it failed to start at all and I pushed it next
door to a garage where the battery was place on charge.
Eventually, it received enough current for me to start the
bike and I set off puzzled, knowing that I had been
covering up to about five hundred miles a day which should
have been ample to keep it charged.

I rode west on 'I.40', a double lane freeway back into
Arizona.  Then I turned south onto 'R61', a single road
highway.  Very soon I was in mountain country and it was
cold.  The same dry cutting cold that I had experienced in
the painted desert.  My route took me through pine
forests.  Soon I left Navajo country far behind me and I
entered the Apache reservation.  I made a detour to visit
Fort Apache, one of the most famous forts of the Apache
wars.  Here one of the most famous commanders, General
Crook had his headquarters.  It had also been visited by
many Apache chiefs such as Cochise.  Now it had been taken
over by the Indian Service and was a school.

I rode through the gates.  Two small Indian girls were
playing on swings outside a large forbidding red bricked
barrack-like building.  I rode up to a long low building
marked 'Museum'.  Two Apache men in their thirties stood
by a desk in the hallway, their long black hair falling
down to their shoulders.  "Is it all right to look round?"
I asked.  "Sure," they replied, "and if you have any
questions be sure to ask.  It basically consisted of old
articles of Apache way of life and old photographs.  When
I came out one of the Indians said, "Hey, man you must be
really cold on that motorcycle you should have brought a
spare.  "Spare?" I asked.  "A woman!"  "Oh."  I left
wondering whether this was Apache or American slang.

I rode on, stopping at an old abandoned Anasazi pueblo
which I reached by following a dirt track off the road.
It was surrounded by barb wire and corrugated iron.  A
notice said, "Keep off Under Restoration."  I continued on
my way following 'R.77' due south.  It was bitterly cold
and as I rode the sun began to set.  Suddenly the road
plunged downwards into a steep gorge through a series of
hairpin bends.  A river ran at the bottom.  This was the
Salt River.  I crossed over and then just as suddenly the
road wound upwards the other side.  Steep white cliffs
towered over me and as I rode upwards the sky reddened
with the dying sun and this in turn coloured the darkening
rocks around me.  This was once of the most beautiful
scenes I experienced on the whole trip, made all the more
beautiful because, unlike the natural beauties of the
painted desert and the Grand Canyon, I had not been
prepared for it.

I rode up out of Salt Canyon and continued south.  It was
soon pitch dark.  Eventually, I reached a town telling me
that I was entering the old rip-roaring cowboy town of
Globe.  I rode into the main street and booked into yet
another motel.




Chapter 7

Return to Contents Page