CHAPTER 5

Navajo Country


I left the interstate freeway system far behind me at
Phoenix and was travelling on minor roads across the vast
Navajo reservation.  The reservation covers nearly 24,00
square miles which is roughly the same size as Wales in
the UK.  The Navajo, unlike the majority of the North
American Indians, did not completely loose their homeland
to the White Man.  After a bitterly fought war followed by
a forced march into exile, during which many died, they
were eventually allowed home.  Now the population of this
biggest of all the Indian reservations was actually
increasing.

The terrain I rode through was mostly desert.  I stopped
for petrol and a coffee and a hamburger at a small group
of building which contained a service station and a
restaurant.  The restaurant was run by two Navajo women
and three small children were running about.  As I ate, a
pretty Indian girl came in.  She had long back hair
cascading down to the middle of her back and wore a tight
fitting buckskin dress,  She crossed to the jukebox and
played a Fleetwood Mac record and suddenly the mood seemed
sadly out of place.

I left the restaurant and rode down a side rode which read
'Navajo National Monument'.  I reached the visitor centre
and was told by the friendly young Navajo in his green
'Ranger' Uniform that I was welcome to camp there free of
charge if I wished.  I thanked him but declined as it was
still not quite yet noon and there were many more miles I
wished to cover that day.  At the back of the centre was a
footpath which led to the 'Monument'.  I walked for about
a quarter of a mile on a path of concrete laid down on
hard rock pass small fur trees.  Eventually, I arrived at
the rim of a steep canyon.  The walls were sheer orange-
brown stained rock.  At first I did not see anything.
Then I let my eyes follow the far canyon wall to a small
hollow near the bottom.  There I saw the ruins of small
orange-stained adobe buildings blending into the rock.
These were the cliff dwellings of the Anasazi
Civilisation, built seven centuries ago.

The name Anasazi is from a Navajo word meaning "the
ancient ones".  They established small pueblo-like towns
and cities in north-eastern Arizona.  The civilisation was
predominantly based on agriculture and reached its peak in
the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries.  Then by AD 1300 they
abandoned their homes for reasons which have not been
satisfactorily explained.  Some moved towards the Rio
Grande, others south to the territory now occupied by the
Hopi Indians, who by carrying on their own ancient
traditions, offer a contemporary insight into past Pueblo
life.  The ancestors of the Navajo and Apache migrated
down from the north west of Canada much later and the
Navajo began to occupy the canyon area in about 1700.  The
language and culture of the Navajo is very much different
from that of  the other Indian tribes of the US, such as
the Sioux, Comanche etc., and is more related to that of
the natives of north west Canada.  The Navajo were a
warlike people.  However, they used the canyons as
strongholds and also developed an agricultural form of
life learnt from the pueblos and Spanish.  They did not
build houses but lived in "hogans", leaving the Anasazi
buildings unoccupied and unmolested.

I left the visitor centre and rode back to the main road
to continue my journey north-east.  The countryside
gradually became more rugged.  After some miles I turned
north onto 'R.163' towards Utah, and just over the border
between Arizona and Utah lay the tower-like rocks of
Monument Valley.  This landmark may be familiar to many
people as it has been used as a backdrop to many western
movies, principally of the Jon Wayne films, "Stagecoach"
and "The Searchers".  I stopped at the visitor centre and
viewed the scene.  It was late afternoon and the sun began
sinking.  There was a campsite at the centre but the
ground looked stony and more suited to the American style
trailers than my small tent so I resolved to ride on and
find a motel.  I rode back into Arizona to 'R.160' and
followed it further east.  The sky was very over cast so
there was no brilliant sunset.  As the sky grew darker the
towering rocks slid passed me like ghostly castles.  It
quickly became pitch dark and got very cold.  I followed
the road towards the "Four Corners".  This being the only
point in the USA where four states meet.  The states
being, Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico.  I stopped
at a fast-food restaurant for a bite to eat.  Outside and
old Indian was sat on the pavement, leaning against the
wall.  He admire the bike.  Afterwards when I came out, he
tried to persuade me to give him a lift to Farmington.  I
politely refused saying that with all my luggage there was
no more room on the bike.  Also I was slightly unsure
about him as I had heard that alcoholism was rife amongst
the Navajo.  All the same it did not prevent me from
leaving without a feeling of guilt.  I rode on to
Farmington and booked into a cheap motel.

The next day I rode back through Shiprock and saw the
massive ship-like rock from which the town takes its name.
Then I rode due south on 'R.666'.  I had hoped at some
point to visit the Canyon de Chelly (pronounced "shay").
However. I became engulfed in a violent thunder storm
which appeared to be coming from the mountains I wished to
visit.  I was force to don my water-proof oversuit and it
became difficult to hold the bike upright in the fierce
wind.  Thus I continued due south and booked straight into
another hotel.

The next day there was no sign of the past storm and the
sky was a clear blue.  I booked my room for another night
and then backtracked a few miles of my previous days
journey.  I decided to risk braving the mountains which
were deep in the heart of Navajo land.



Chapter 6

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