CHAPTER 4

The Painted Desert and The Grand Canyon


To reach Phoenix I had to ride a distance of roughly two
hundred miles across very flat terrain.  However, I made
good time as the road was mostly freeway and I was able to
follow 'I 10' all the way from Tucson.  My purpose in
going to Phoenix was to visit a rodeo.  This was to take
place at the Arizona State fair in the centre of the city
on Monday 25th and Tuesday 26th October.  I arrived on the
afternoon of 25th and as the nearest campsite was over
twenty miles away, I booked into a motel for the first
time on my holiday.  The next day I set out for the fair
which was within walking distance.

The rodeo took place at 3 o'clock in the afternoon.  It
was an all Indian rodeo and the audience too appeared to
be composed mostly of Indians many of who appeared to be
related to the participants of the rodeo.  These were the
first Indians I had seen on my travels.  They appeared
mostly to be of Navajo or Apache extraction.  The rodeo
was obviously an annual festival and I was treated to
displays of bareback bronc. riding, bull riding, calf
roping, bull dogging and barrel racing.  When it was over
I was able to explore the fair which was in essence a
large fun-fair with many horrific mechanical rides.  But
there was a tent devoted to the arts and crafts of the
Indians, including demonstrations of Navajo weaving and
sand painting.  I stayed a second evening at the motel as
it was too late to continue my journey that day.  That
evening I explored Phoenix's night life.  there were only
two bars within walking distance from the motel.  In one
the juke box played country music continuously, in the
other it played non stop heavy metal music.  I detested
both but chose the bar with the country music because at
least it was quieter.

The next day I left Phoenix and rode north-west along
'Route 88' towards Holbrook.  After twenty miles the
landscape began to change and I left the desert behind me.
Soon I was into mountain country and the road climbed its
way through pine forests.  The change in terrain was quite
dramatic and is not of the type generally associated with
Arizona.  It reminded me very much of an earlier trip to
the black forest in Germany.  As I climbed it began to get
colder, although the sky was still clear and filled with
sunshine.  I was forced to stop and put on more clothing,
conscious of the fact that only the other day I was
sweltering in the desert.  Eventually I emerged from the
forests on to a dry flat plain, conscious of the fact that
I was at high altitude.  I was back in desert again,
however, it was still cold.  It was a very dry cutting
cold but there was no wind.  I reached Holbrook, found a
campsite and pitched my tent.   Then I walked to a nearby
restaurant for a steak to warm myself up.  It was seven
o'clock and already getting dark.  It was extremely cold
that night.  The next morning I got up, packed up my tent
and booked into a nearby motel.  Then I had a hot shower
to defrost myself before setting off to explore the nearby
Painted Desert and petrified Forest National Park.

The ride through the national park covers a 27 mile scenic
drive through an area characterised by desert and
sandstone.  The desert is stained by different minerals
such as carbon and iron in the sandstone and also by scant
vegetation.  This gives rises to vivid, greens, reds and
blues.  There is hardly any rainfall here and there is no
water so that erosion is slow.  The sky overhead was a
deep clear blue and the sun was shining but it was still
very cold.  In certain parts of the desert the slow
erosion had uncovered giant petrified logs; the remains of
primeval trees which, after falling into ancient rivers,
had become encased in silt and silica turning them into
fossilised rock.  The sight of these "rock -logs" is quite
staggering.  In some cases they have protected the ground
below them somewhat from erosion so that they have been
left above the surrounding area on the top of small
pillars of sandstone.  I spent the whole day exploring
this area and then returned to the motel for the night.

The next day I set off early and was soon riding west
towards Flafstaff on the famous 'Route 66'.  On the way I
stopped to view Meteor Crater.  This is a giant hole in
the desert created by a meteor dating back to 20,000 BC..
It is 570 feet deep and more than 3 miles in
circumference.  It was here that NASA trained its
Astronauts for walking on the moon.  I stopped for an hour
and then continued on my way.  At one point I saw horse
back riders  in the distance away to the right and felt
that they must be Indians as I was crossing part of the
large Navajo reservation.  At Flagstaff I turned north on
to 'Route 89'.  The terrain had changed briefly again to
pine forest but soon I was back in desert.  It was much
warmer than the day before but not warm enough to discard
my leather jacket.  A little while later, I turned left on
to 'R64' and a few miles later I reached the south rim of
the Grand Canyon.

I expect most people have seen pictures of this famous
landmark.  To me the steep walls seemed to resemble a
badly cut block of Neapolitan ice cream.  The Colorado
river at the bottom of the gorge appeared as a mere
trickle.  I followed the rim, through pine forests,
stopping at various vantage points to admire this dramatic
spectacle.  There was a campsite near the visitor centre
which, because of the time of year, was almost deserted.
I stopped there and pitched my tent by the light of my
head lamp.

I would have liked to have descended the gorge to the
bottom of the canyon but I knew that the journey would
have had to be by foot or mule and would have taken two
days.  Also there were other sights I wished to see before
it was time to head home.  The next morning I rose early
and once more packed my tent on the back of the bike.
Then I rode west away from the Canyon on 'R89'.  I rode
north for a few miles before turning north-east on to
'R160' which led me deep into Indian Territory.



Chapter 5

Return to Contents Page