AMERICAN ROAD

CHAPTER 3

Apache Country


Southern Arizona is characterised by large planes dotted
with small mountain ranges.  In 1982 Mike, was serving
with the US Army and was stationed at Fort Huachuca (The H
is pronounced as a W) which was sited at the base of the
Huachuca mountains.  Huachuca is an Indian name meaning
thunder and I was told that during the rainy season, which
I had missed by three months, the mountains were engulfed
by violent electrical thunder storms.  The fort was
founded in 1877 for the protection of settlers in the San
Pedro and Santa Cruz Valleys.  It did not take a major
role in the Indian wars; the most important Forts being
Lowell in the east, Bowie in the West and Fort Apache in
the north.  However, it was one of the few still in
existence and the original barracks were intact and in
use.  It was part of the US army communication network
involved with satellites etc..  A far cry from the days
when its occupants kept watch for roving bands of hostile
Apaches passing to and fro the Mexican border by flashing
heliograph signals to neighbouring posts from the mountain
tops.  It became the home of the Buffalo Solders, a
regiment of Negro troops from a time when racial
segregation was not officially frowned upon.  The name
Buffalo Solder was bestowed by the Indians as to them they
resembled the prairie animals but the term was not mean
derogatory as they regarded them with great respect.

The land around Sierra Vista and Fort Huachuca was mostly
desert.  However, it differed from the desert around
Tucson in that the tall saguaro cactus could not grow as
the altitude was too high and the nights give rise to
frost.  Instead, here the mesquite tree was predominant.
They are stunted and twisted in appearance and looked more
like a bushes than trees.  They appear to be dead as they
have few leaves for most of the year, with the exception
of the rainy season.  However, their roots go down to well
over a hundred feet.  Some people have suggested that if
the mesquite was destroyed then other plants would have a
chance to grow and the desert could be reclaimed.

I spent several days exploring the region.  On one
occasion I rode a hundred miles south-east to visit the
Chiricahua mountains.  This was the home of Chiricahua
Apache Indians, the most war-like of all the Apache bands,
their most famous leaders being Cochise and Geronimo.  I
reached the mountains at mid day and then rode the winding
tourist route through pine forests, pass small streams, to
the highest point.  This was known as Massai point and was
over 7,000 feet above sea level.  It was named after a
warrior, "Big Foot" Massai, who staged several one man
escapades following the final surrender of Geronimo in
1886.  There I sat and ate my sandwiches and looked out
over columns of tall rocks.  These were sculptured by
volcanic action many millions of years ago forming natural
pillars and peculiarly shaped balanced rocks.  All around
the area was rich in plant and animal life.  The mountains
provide a forested island in a sea of desert.  The Indians
used them as natural fortresses to which they returned
after raids, which was why they were so difficult to
subdue.  An area in the Dragoon Mountains, about fifty
miles further west, came to be known as the Cochise
stronghold and he is said to be buried there in a secret
grave amongst the rocks.  There were no longer any Apaches
left in south-east Arizona.  When Geronimo surrendered
they were split up.  Some were transported with Geronimo
to Florida and some to reservations further north or in
Mexico.  I rode back by way of Pierce, a ghost town which
died when the mining ran out.  Only the General Store was
left standing.  I then took a dirt road, which my map
showed to be a short cut coming out near Tombstone, but it
got dark quickly and riding was difficult.  I arrived back
at Sierra Vista tired and with myself and the bike covered
with dust.

I was amazed at the number of different wild animals that
I saw during my excursions across the desert.  I had seen
mule deer (their ears resemble those of a mule), several
ground squirrels, a coyote, and even a bobcat.  I saw many
birds of prey and also road runners.  The road runner
resembles a pheasant but is in fact more closely related
to the cuckoo (they sometimes lay their eggs in other
birds' nests).  They zoomed across the road in front of me
in quite a comical manner, which is quite hair-raising
when riding on a motorcycle, and I saw the remains of some
which probably had similar encounters with other motorists
but did not quite make it.

I had many enjoyable excursions over the next few days.
On one occasion Philippa, drove me into the county town of
Bisby and I went down a copper mine, or rather in as the
tiny train that I and my fellow tourists boarded went into
the side of a mountain.  The copper mines of Bisby were
now redundant  (it was cheaper to import from South
America). and the town had shrunk in size.

Philippa and I had lunch in the Copper Queen, a nineteenth
century hotel preserved from the rip-roaring mining days
but now it seemed quite quiet, sleepy and quaint.  On
another occasion I rode out alone south-west towards the
Mexican border.  There I visited the old Spanish mission
at Tunacacori, built by Spanish priests in the late 1700s.
A few miles further north was the old Spanish settlement
of Tubac but only remains of the old adobe walls are left.
I would have liked to cross the border further south at
Nogales into Mexico, but time and difficulties with
insurance cover for the bike prevented me.

After eight days of wandering around southern Arizona, I
decided to bid Philippa and Mike good-bye temporarily.  I
wanted to see the country in the north and, as Arizona is
roughly the same area as England, I knew that I would be
gone for several days.  I still had four weeks of my
holiday remaining and I planned to visit them again before
it was time for me to return to California.  I packed my
luggage and tent on the back of the bike and then waved
good-bye.  Soon I was following 'I 10' back through Tucson
and then north towards Phoenix.




Chapter 4

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